FIRST ASCENTS OF THE PINK MOUNTAIN
The first approaches to the summit were made from the west slopes. The Silbersattel was reached in 1847 by V. Puisieux, E. Ordinaire and guides J. Brantschen, J. Moser, M. and J. Zumtaugwald.On September 1854, the brothers Christopher, Edmund and James G. Smyth with guides Ulrich Lauener climbed a 4,630 m high minor summit located 100 m east of the Dufourspitze, now called Ostspitze. The brothers Smith were convinced they had climbed the highest peak because at the time it was unclear where exactly was the highest point.
The first complete ascent was made from Zermatt on August 1, 1855 by John Birkbeck, Charles Hudson, Christopher Smyth, James G. Smyth, Edward Stephenson with the guides Matthäus Zumtaugwald and Johannes Zumtaugwald and Ulrich Lauener. They followed the already opened route to the Ostspitze by the Silbersattel. On the summits, instead of turning back on the same way, they decided to continue on the unexplored western ridge and thus passed the thrue summit before going down to Zermatt. One of the climbers, Charles Hudson, will die 10 years later during the first ascent of the Matterhorn.
John Tyndall in addition to be a prominent physicist, was an accomplished mountaineer. According to his account (Glaciers of the Alps), in 1858 he made the first solo ascent. Tyndall had already summited the Dufourspitze in a guided group one week before but he made an unplanned second summit solo on 17 August.